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Post by ronmiller on Mar 8, 2020 19:56:56 GMT
How odd for me to be posting on erotic covers with my Jesus super hero avatar. I have to remove him. Sorry, Jesus kid. This avatar is much better! |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 23:00:35 GMT
How odd for me to be posting on erotic covers with my Jesus super hero avatar. I have to remove him. Sorry, Jesus kid. This avatar is much better! Thank you, Ron! |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 23:03:00 GMT
I have a lot of fun colorizing B&W images (and a good thing, too, since an awful lot of the older photos in my files are B&W...for instance, the one of the crouching girl was taken some 30 years ago). I think that one mistake a lot of people make in doing this is assuming that the human body is the same color over every square inch. In reality, there are a lot of subtle differences from area to area...and the body also picks up colors from the surroundings, too. I also start by tinting the B&W image...that is, I will change the tones from greys to a kind of neutral warmish grey or sepia by adjusting Color Balance in Photoshop: cranking up the red and yellow. For instance, here is what the figure on one of the book covers looks like before coloring was added... View AttachmentColors are added on a layer set at the "Multiply" mode, which makes the colors transparent...sort of as though I am applying watercolor washes or oil glazes. I was getting ready to ask how you colourize an old photo when you explained. Extremely useful. Thank you. |
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Post by ronmiller on Mar 9, 2020 0:07:40 GMT
I have a lot of fun colorizing B&W images (and a good thing, too, since an awful lot of the older photos in my files are B&W...for instance, the one of the crouching girl was taken some 30 years ago). I think that one mistake a lot of people make in doing this is assuming that the human body is the same color over every square inch. In reality, there are a lot of subtle differences from area to area...and the body also picks up colors from the surroundings, too. I also start by tinting the B&W image...that is, I will change the tones from greys to a kind of neutral warmish grey or sepia by adjusting Color Balance in Photoshop: cranking up the red and yellow. For instance, here is what the figure on one of the book covers looks like before coloring was added... Colors are added on a layer set at the "Multiply" mode, which makes the colors transparent...sort of as though I am applying watercolor washes or oil glazes. I was getting ready to ask how you colourize an old photo when you explained. Extremely useful. Thank you. I should try to figure out a good way to do some sort of tutorial. Even though each example poses slightly different problems most of the basic principles are the same. Here is another example...   The picture on the left incorporates the B&W image of Judith on the right, which was colorized. One of the main things to make sure of was that the figure appear to be part of the entire picture, which mainly meant making sure that the lighting was consistent. For instance, there is a blue light source off frame on the left and the warm light from the fire behind and to the right. This is not only reflected in the figure but in the dragon (which was, by the way, a photo of a large model) and the building in the background. Doing this made everything fit together. Even if I have to make something up in order to do so, I will try to post some step-by-step images of the colorizing process, though---as I said---there really is no set 1-2-3 way of doing it. It's mainly being aware of the different tones and colors that exist in the human figure and the effects of ambient light. |
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Post by ronmiller on Mar 9, 2020 16:40:23 GMT
   Here is the one cover with its color layer separated. (The white is actually supposed to be transparent...I neglected to keep it that way when making the sample.) The colors added to the background were on their own layer. As I mentioned before, the color layer is done in Photoshop in Multiply mode, which allows the colors to tint the underlying tones. I start off by changing the B&W image to one with warm tones, so that I am not adding color to greys. Sometimes I will separate out areas. For instance, I may only give regions of skin warm tones while areas with clothing, hair or other materials may have a different tint, depending on what I want the final result to be. In this case, the girl's skirt was slanted more toward red, so that when I added the color on the overlay, it came out the way I wanted. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2020 23:13:30 GMT
I was getting ready to ask how you colourize an old photo when you explained. Extremely useful. Thank you. I should try to figure out a good way to do some sort of tutorial. Even though each example poses slightly different problems most of the basic principles are the same. Here is another example... The picture on the left incorporates the B&W image of Judith on the right, which was colorized. One of the main things to make sure of was that the figure appear to be part of the entire picture, which mainly meant making sure that the lighting was consistent. For instance, there is a blue light source off frame on the left and the warm light from the fire behind and to the right. This is not only reflected in the figure but in the dragon (which was, by the way, a photo of a large model) and the building in the background. Doing this made everything fit together. Even if I have to make something up in order to do so, I will try to post some step-by-step images of the colorizing process, though---as I said---there really is no set 1-2-3 way of doing it. It's mainly being aware of the different tones and colors that exist in the human figure and the effects of ambient light. I wonder how they do the tutorials on youtube. There should be a way to record yourself working on Photoshop, as in your computer is recording itself. I haven't used that feature in a while. Anyway, it would be really interesting to watch you work.
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Post by ronmiller on Mar 11, 2020 12:36:43 GMT
To show the importance of tinting the base image first when colorizing a photo, here is what one of the covers I posted recently would look like if the figure had been left in grayscale (right), compared to how it looked when the base image had its color adjusted first (left). The final colorizing overlay is the same in both.   As I said earlier, this is simply done (in Photoshop) by using Image/Adjustments/Color Balance to make the original grayscale image warmer by increasing the amount of red and yellow. If you are colorizing, say, a figure wearing some sort of costume, you might want to make the skin tones warm but tint the different parts of the costume in the appropriate direction for their final coloring. |
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Post by ronmiller on Mar 11, 2020 13:09:11 GMT
I should try to figure out a good way to do some sort of tutorial. Even though each example poses slightly different problems most of the basic principles are the same. Here is another example... The picture on the left incorporates the B&W image of Judith on the right, which was colorized. One of the main things to make sure of was that the figure appear to be part of the entire picture, which mainly meant making sure that the lighting was consistent. For instance, there is a blue light source off frame on the left and the warm light from the fire behind and to the right. This is not only reflected in the figure but in the dragon (which was, by the way, a photo of a large model) and the building in the background. Doing this made everything fit together. Even if I have to make something up in order to do so, I will try to post some step-by-step images of the colorizing process, though---as I said---there really is no set 1-2-3 way of doing it. It's mainly being aware of the different tones and colors that exist in the human figure and the effects of ambient light. I wonder how they do the tutorials on youtube. There should be a way to record yourself working on Photoshop, as in your computer is recording itself. I haven't used that feature in a while. Anyway, it would be really interesting to watch you work.
Turns out that I have the software for recording the computer screen as I do something...I've just never used it! I'll give it a shot and see what the learning curve is like... |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2020 16:40:21 GMT
Turns out that I have the software for recording the computer screen as I do something...I've just never used it! I'll give it a shot and see what the learning curve is like... That would be amazing,Ron. You could break them up, say, 5 mins each. And you could have a YouTube channels, "Ron's Art Tutorials." |
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Post by ronmiller on Mar 11, 2020 19:39:21 GMT
What an idea! hmmmmm....
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2020 21:43:46 GMT
You're a natural-born teacher, Ron. Give me the link so I can subscribe when you set up the first video.
Oh, you can post the links here or embed so we see the actual video. They offer an embed code at YouTube.
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Post by ronmiller on Mar 12, 2020 12:43:13 GMT
You're a natural-born teacher, Ron. Give me the link so I can subscribe when you set up the first video. Oh, you can post the links here or embed so we see the actual video. They offer an embed code at YouTube. Don't rush to YouTube! I gotta learn how to use this software first! |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2020 13:59:01 GMT
You're a natural-born teacher, Ron. Give me the link so I can subscribe when you set up the first video. Oh, you can post the links here or embed so we see the actual video. They offer an embed code at YouTube. Don't rush to YouTube! I gotta learn how to use this software first! Ok, but I'm excited. |
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Post by And Kevin 2024 on Mar 17, 2020 1:42:08 GMT
Backwards can have whole different meanings.
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Post by And Kevin 2024 on Mar 17, 2020 1:45:19 GMT
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